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Preparing the deck

It’s all in the preparation – as with most things time taken in this area will improve the finished result, so it’s worth taking the time to prepare the deck correctly, see below for tips on how to do this:
  • If the substrate is unfit for laying boards, the surface will need to be removed
  • Decking boards will absorb moisture if in contact with water. Any moisture trapped within the roof will cause board movement and possibly joint failure
  • As with laying the laminate, ensure that conditions are dry before decking the roof
  • After removing the old decking, check that all roofing joists are sound and free from rot. Replace these as required
  • If possible, build a fall into the substrate so that the roof can drain and remain free from standing water
Floor Coatings,  Wall Coatings
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Laying the deck

When laying the deck the following points will be helpful:
 
  • 18mm CSB3 boards are laid lengthways at 90° to the roof joists. Boards must be laid with the writing side uppermost. This will give a better key for the laminate and allow the resin to flow into the board joints, which will effectively glue the boards together
  • Start to lay the boards at the furthest edge from the drip. If laid against a wall, an expansion gap of 25mm should be left. Align the end of the board with the fascia, laying boards from end to end. Trim the last board in the row, flush with the fascia. Using the off-cut (if greater than 400mm) start to lay the next row of boards by fitting the tongue firmly into the groove of the row already laid, this will make the boards staggered and will form a strong deck
  • When two rows have been laid, the boards can be aligned to run straight, fixing them as you go. Continue to lay each row in turn using the off-cut from one row to start the next row. The last row is simply cut off in line with the fascia.
  • The most efficient way to fix boards to timber joists is to use a compressed, gas powered nail gun. A 63mm (or longer) galvanised ring shank nail should be used at 200mm centres, usually 4 nails across a 600mm board. The nails must be driven into a joist
  • If a screw gun is to be used, the screws must have a minimum of 40mm penetration into the joist. The boards can also be nailed, using a hammer, however, this can lead to internal damage to the ceiling. All ring shank nails must be non rusting (galvanised or sheradised)